Frist off this is not a bitch or a flame!!!!

With that said here i go i had a tec2 that i was way way past its limit's , but I LOVED IT so when it came time for the upgrade i called and talks to UWE (sorry if i miss spelled it). He told me how great this system was and how much upgrades and how advanced it has become. I was sold!! after all i loved my tec 2 can't go wrong with a GT.

FYI the set-up:

toyota 2rz 2.4
ported head with rev valvetrain
web stage 1 cams
cp 9:1 20 over pistons
pauter rod
zero balanced everything
a-1 head studs
turbonetics super T76 with an .81ar back housing and they're f-1 wheel
C&R raccars intake with 8 160lbs injectors
areomotive eleminator pump -12 to pump -10 to rail feeded on both sides out the middle
wired to the battery with 40amp relay
car runs at 13.8- 14 v

Now, i have had nothing but problems with this TEC GT (crap) I have an intermitant cam sensor signal that is a ghost . I can't fix it and NO ONE at EMI can give me a REAL answer. I was told to try and convert it to a hall sensor ? THATS BS !
Why can't EMI get this to work right? I was on the dyno and couldn't get my car over 555whp AT 40LBS WTF? I was made 620whp at 28lbs on a smaller turbo with my tec 2! That day me and my tuner gave up after 10hrs on the dyno at a hook up at $40/hr (do the math).

I took the car home and double and triple checked EVERYTHING i even made block off plates to test the intake for cracks or broken welds. Redegreed the engine that was good ,sent out the injectors they where mactched and perfect . so i put it back together and went to the dyno again.

when i got to my friend's shop and where strapping the down. I had an idea i was going to have my son drive the car and i was going to look for boost leaks or if the engine had anything funny going on. so i made a pull at 30lbs and WOW i made 418 whp on a t76. so we did a couple more and i couldn't find any leaks or anything else. Next i checked my air gap for the crank trigger .018 so thats good. Then my buddy said check the timing with the t-light , so i did timing at idle was fine so i said lets do a pull and i will watch it with the gun.

AND LOW AND BEHOLD THE TIMING WAS ERATIC GO FIGURE (INTERMITANT CAM SENSOR?) AND ALSO HAS ME THINKING I MAYBE DROPING INJECTORS ASWELL (i have high duty cycle aswell)

So some of you may say why did i not see it on the datalog ? Simple that dosn't work either it shut's it self of at round 4500 right around where i start to make boost

SO MY QUESTION IS TO EMI ARE YOU GOING TO GET THIS FIXED OR AM I JUST SCREWED AND NEED TO SELL THIS AND BUY SOMETHING ELSE

THANKS
Darren Brown

P.S. there is a problem with the software in the stystem 32 .dll file i had to fix it

Wow, you clearly need to re-evaluate your definition of "bitch" and "flame". When did you last speak with Uwe? You clearly don't think much of the help he was trying give. Did you really want it? Hall Effect sensors are not BS. They do work much better as a cam sync because they are much more immune to noise which prevents false triggering. Finally, WE cannot get your car to work, because ITS NOT OUR CAR, WE ARE NOT WORKING ON IT. You plainly are having issues that CANNOT be SPECIFICALLY attributed to the TECgt at this time. Don't be so quick to blame the black box.

First: You have clearly changed a lot of things here. After looking around a little, I found that you are running E85, not gasoline. This is a fairly important point that you failed to mention in your rant. That said, I fail to see why you think that you will need eight 160lb/hr injectors. At 85% dutycycle, you're looking at an easy 1200 HP worth in fuel. While its true that you have gone to a bigger turbo and are looking to up your boost pressure (a lot), do you really need that much?

Second: At 40PSI boost pressure, and a 45psi regulator, you'll need to sustain 85PSI on the fuel rail. Will your fuel pump keep up with that? I did a little looking. It might, if you stay under 700 horsepoer. The chart I found for that pump says that at 13.5v and 80PSI your down to 600lb/hr flow (from its max of 1100 lb/hr @ 30PSI). To make 700 hp on ethanol, you'll need 595lb/hr. That's pushing it.

Is this the same dyno you used before? Dynos can be setup to read almost anything you want. Are you really sure the numbers you had then and now are reliable or even comparable?

If you think there is really something wrong with the system, send it to us and let us take a look. Based on this post, your interest is not in getting the system to work, but in making us look bad. I suggest you take a breath and help us to help you.

can you pm me a number i can reach you at ? or email it to me?

i do not what to get rid of my TEC i just what the car to run right. and i'm SORRY if i came off tring to make you guy's look bad that was not my intension. there just a bunch of us on here with the same problem. maybe if we talk we can figure this out, because thats my goal. To get the car back to what it was and alittle better .

thanks
Darren

703-331-0100 x218

Give me a call and I will get the info to Jon. We are looking forward to helping you out and getting your car running properly.

Great stuff guy's... Thanks for all your help!!

Dear Jon!

I have the same problem as Darren and I have a different engine configuration!
INT CAM SEN

SOFTWARE SYSTEM 32.dll problem too!
*Windows XP (US configuration)

I live in Argentina. ( Far away to send TEC GT to you to check!)

Seems both have the same problems!

Thanks!
Hernan Munoz Moser

Hernan,

If you can why dont you try to give us a call and we can try to talk you through the problem. 703-331-0100

I do not know what the time difference is or if there is a language barrier but by reading your post it seams your English is better than mine

here's the update

i rewire the car to run batch injection. no more cam code i did a wizard to get the tog pluged that in to the newly revised program for batch and the car started and idled cold (never did that before) let it warm up and started to retune. got some base tuning done then back to the dyno at 23lbs i made 501whp the last dyno sesion i made 555whp at 40lbs . also no timing jumping around and and injector duty cycle was very linaer. i am still running a conservitive timing map and still a litlle fat up top but for the most part i am happy. I had to come off the dyno because i was on this on for free and a paying costumer came to my friends shop, so i'm going to set up anthor time and and up the boost and mess with these web cams (jon knows what i'm talking about)

thanks jon and dan @ emi you guy's are a great help

Im glad we could help. Those are nice numbers for low boost! Good luck and let us know what you end up pulling.

Give us a call if you have any other questions.

update

went to the dyno yesterday and left very happy i made 641 at 33lbs after 9 pulls upping the boost. the only thing holding me back now is the pump ( your right jon) it started to drop pressure up top at about 38lbs so i just backed it down to 33lbs and it looks steady. so i just drive it like this for a while and jon if you can recommend me a pump for 1000whp on the E85 let me know

thanks again
Darren Brown

Do you have a way of mounting and running a mechanical pump?

If not this will work or the eliminator series but plan on spending some money.

http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/products.php?prod=164

hi dan,

i'm running the areomotive eliminator jon had figured it would run out at around 700hp don't know if thes motor hp or whp. but i did some datloging last night and i am getting lean up top in 4th and 5th. so i back the boost down to 30lbs and i don't see it as much

I was thinking about a mechanical pump but can i run it on the street and i was told that the cell has to be in the front ? do you know anything about them.

thanks

I just recently switched to this pump:

Fuelab 42401

...and have had very good results so far.

It would seem that Fuel Lab has some good choices, but Tim, it looks like your link is broken. Which pump is it your looking at?

Another option is to run two pumps. As long as both can flow enough fuel for the power your looking to make, you can have one pump feed the other. Then the pressure rise is split between the two and they should be able to keep up. There's nothing wrong with mechanincal pumps either. It may make the enigne a little slower to start, but this is a race car. Your not looking for it to get you to work in the snow when it's dark and -15 degs outside.

Link fixed above (hopefully). It was the 42401