I am building a 33 Dodge street rod pickup with a late 2.4 turbo engine, R154 trans, ect. I am not exactly ready for my Fuel injection unit, but I am getting close to start mapping wiring ect. I am thinking about going with TEC-Gt unit.

Did you guys use the Neon style trigger wheel set up or custom? Are your running full sequential and using the factory cam sensor? Are you using Electromotive coil packs, or wire in the factory style coils?

I am still way off from getting this going, but I have the money now for the Tec-Gt and I am trying to get the more expensive items out of the way, while I still have the cash.

Any help would greatly be appreciated!

Thanks, Brian

Full sequential with stock cam sensor and modified cam trigger. Its an AL piece with two opposing magnets. Though I have an engine code (I think cuz my sensor isn't alligned correctly). Stock coil pack. I think Nemo at rage-tek could help you out with the modified trigger. I'm sure coolfornow knows what I'm talking about also. Hope it helps, and if anyone else has better info please chime in-

Won't work. Need the normal 60-2 trigger wheel.



I pin the pulley to the crank. The way I made this it's infinitely adjustable. That way I don't have to hit the 11th tooth "dead on" when I push the pulley onto the crank. Trial and error trying to get it lined up sucks if the wheel is fixed to the pulley and it takes 14 times to get it on and lined up right.

Thanks Guys, good pics on the crank sensor, I know I have to run the 60-2 crank, Its good to know about modified cam wheel and stock sensor, I will check with Nemo. Its great to be able to use the stock coil, do you have a wire diagram? I have no problems with the electromotive coils, I am just looking for a cleaner look since this vehicle will not have a hood or hood sides. Thanks, Brian

When you look at the stock coil you'll see 3 pins. The center is the 12V feed. The left pin is for cylinders #2 and #3, right side pin is for #1 and #4. Check the install book, you'll use the wires for coils A and B. I don't remember the wire colors in the TEC harness.

Thanks again, I will probally be asking you guys alot as I get this thing going. Like I said, I am far away, but want to start getting all my stuff together.

I will try to get some pics together as I complete the build. My frame and suspension is almost complete. The engine, trans, driveshaft and rear end is all installed for mock up. Fuel tank installed with a Walbro 255 pump inside. I hope to complete my stainless turbo header in a month or so.

My engine is a 2.4 out of a 04 jeep liberty, has 38K miles. I plan to remove balance shafts, Eagle rods, forged pistons. Not sure if I will do head work in the beginning or not. Maybe a Rage-tech cnc head. Im using a PT turbo lower intake manifold and will build an upper plenum using a 70mm tb. I have a GT3082r turbo with stainless turbine housing and will be running 44mm Tial WG. I worked the factory 2.4 jeep bellhousing and using a R154 Supra trans.

The rear suspension is a trianglated 4 link with coil overs, rear end is a Dana 44 with Ford 9" axles, wilwood disk brakes, 3.91 gears and posi.

Well thats a little bit whats going on, I hope to get this thing running this winter, will not be finished, but running.

You fairly familiar with going beyond stock with a 2.4? Make sure you plug the oil passage when you drop out the shaft assembly. SRT-4 rods are durable but heavy. You can clean them up and remove about 100grams without issue. Then you'll still have the oil hole for some spray up towards the bottom of the piston with the correct rod bearings. Better block is a turbo block with the oil squirters. Dump the Liberty oil pump and go with SRT-4/turbo PT Cruiser pump/pickup/pan/filter bracket/etc if you haven't already done so. It's a high volume piece, the only high volume pump for any of the 2.4s. Take a good look at that pump/pan system and clean up all the passages you can reach and radius all the sharp corners, there are MANY sharp corners. Using the stock pistons allows you to dial in more timing than you could with a dished piston due to the shape and contour of the dome. I could go on and on, there are numerous small areas for improvement on an already-decent set up.


I'd like to see pics, sounds very interesting and original with a turbo 4 in it.

thanks JeffB!

No, I am not very experienced with 2.4, I have done tons of research and have been compiling info. I am a Mopar guy,always have been, but mainly with muscle cars and trucks. This is my first 4 cylinder because I wanted something different. I have and old 1955 270 dodge hemi that I was going to FI and turbo. That would have been cool also.

I was wandering about the oil pump and pan and stuff. I didnt know what I could change over. If I can switch over to the Oem turbo pump, housing, filter and stuff that would be great. The aluminum pan would look alot better than the jeep stamped pos.

As far as the factory srt rods and pistons, what kind of power would they hold up to?

I was even looking into a complete new factory srt short block. I havent checked lately, but I was thinking it was about $1200. I assume the short block is just that, block, crank, piston and rods. Not sure if it has the pump and housing on it.

I'll probally go with my block, but you never know. I wander if the oil passage is in the jeep block so I could machine it to run piston squirters? This is not some cheap thrown together project.

Thanks again, this is the kind of info I really appreciate.

badeeds,
Like rdeaner, I have the stock CAM sensor with Nemo's custom trigger wheel running full sequential with a TEC3r. The Neon kit could work, but since it's an n under drive pulley, not recommended if you're building for over 300HP, the harmonics will kill your oil pump, as a number of SRT-4 owners have found out. As JeffB said, you're better off with the SRT-4 2.4 block (with pan/pump/pickup) - it was over built by the PVO group so they could get the DCX board approval on their 3rd and final attempt. As far as HP, can't speak to the Jeep 2.4l, but there are plenty 500 HP SRT-4's running on stock internals. Here is the stock coil connector pinout:

[img][img]http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n88/cool4now/IgnitionCoilConnector.gif[/img][/img]

I recall you can get the coil connector through a dealer as part of a harness repair kit.

I've used the stock coil and recently the Electromotive - so far the stock seems to work same as the EMI coil and you can get pre-made plug wires like the Magnecor 8.5 or 10mm wires.


JeffB - where did you get that crank pulley? Is it a custom aluminum pulley he same size as the stock pulley? I would have wanted maybe four set screws, just in case vibration worked one loose - it could be disastrous. Wish Unorthadox or someone would make a lightened crank pully for the SRT-4 at a good price.

Thanks Cool4now. I really like the ATI Super Damper, but really dont know if it is needed at my level. I wander if Nemo has a trick to mount the crank trigger wheel on the Super Damper? I need to call him about several things.

I did order a SRT pan and oil pump housing today. It seemed pretty cheap, so I went ahead.

Im thinking now, going with 8.0-1 JE pistons and eagle rods. I keep reading about having the eagle rods worked? Are they just talking about getting the pins fitted? I know DCR works the rods for a small fee. I also need to find a good 4cyl friendly machine shop here in the Dallas area.

I appreciate you guys on the help, its these little things that are driving me crazy!

Brian

I make all kinds of my stuff. That was a pulley from ModernPerformance.com, I just cut the P/S groove off of it and fit it and the trigger wheel so they'd work together. I've done other things like that for other people. The two bolts seem to be fine. Many hundreds of 1/4 mile passes shifting at 8K+ on that along with 25,000+ street miles.

My pleasure - I help if i can. If you call Nemo, ask him about his lightened pistons. I think DCR actually lightens the rods some, in addition to the pin fitment. When in doubt, look on their site or call them.

Is that the MPX underdrive pulley? If so, have you had any oil pump or alternator problems?

MPX yes. No problems with oil pumps or alternators. I rework my oil pumps/pans/filter brackets and use a much larger filter. That SRT pump is a high volume pump remember. I'm of the belief that it's almost hydro-locking internally because of the high volume. The pump's bypass can't dump enough oil in some cases, that passage is too small. By opening everything up downstream in the flow and the larger filter, that effectively solves the problem. I don't really buy into the other theories about broken pump rotors. I also pull the plug and shim up the spring about .030".